10 x 1.25mm is the tap needed to chased these threads being used.
(2) M10 x 1.25mm x 35mm into frame mounted nuts, that have been chased of debris.
(2) M10 x 1.25mm x 35mm bolts with nuts for open holes on frame rail (passenger side).
(3) M8 x 1.25mm x 35mm bolts with nuts for front bumper mounts.
(more images later)
[print_link]
Taken from NAXJA post
Here’s the passenger side kick panel fuse breakdown for a 2000 XJ
01 – 25A Power Outlet
02 – 25A Cigar Lighter
03 – 10A Left Headlight
04 – 10A Left Headlight
05 – 10A Right Headlight
06 – 05A Dash Lights
07 – 10A Left Parking Lamps
08 – xx Unused
09 – 10A Auto Unlock
10 – 15A Headlight Delay
11 – 20A Transmission Control
12 – 10A Defog Timer
13 – xx Unused
14 – 10A Power Mirror
15 – 25A Passenger Power Locks
16 – 10A Right Headlight
17 – 15A Radio
18 – 10A Driver Power Licks
19 – 10A Clutch Interlock
20 – 15A Tow Connector
21 – 15A Horn
22 – 20A Rear Wiper
23 – 10A Right Parking Lamps
24 – xx Unused
25 – 15A Heater
26 – 10A Air Bag Control
27 – 10A Air Bag Control
Taken from Cherokee Forum post
1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD (Renix)
1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup)
1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)
1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)
Taken from NAXJA post
So, before outlining the proceedure (a.k.a. “key trick”) to get the codes, a few things to note:
1) You may have to set the parking brake for the codes to show
2) On older models, the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it’s probably just a single 55 since codes are not repeated (55 is end of codes – it’s normal)
3) On newer models with a digital odometer, the codes are usually displayed on the odometer rather than blinking the check engine light.
4) When the computer indicates major failure, it can activate “Limp In” mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure, allowing you to get the car to a mechanic. One major symptom of this is losing third and/or fourth gear on autos.
Oil change
Coolant change