XJ Jeep

I got an email from Matt asking about how to get the lift gate gas struts out and replaced. This might be a simple thing but not until you’ve done it once or twice.

So, this is usually a 5-10 minute job to replace both gas struts, and I do recommend replacing both at the same time. That gate coming down on the head will leave a bump!

Have a friend with you holding the gate in the up position. Work on the first strut by removing the (2) 10mm bolts at one end. Then with a small screw driver, on the ball end, you’ll see a “clip” retrainer holding on the ball. Facing you there will be a small divit for getting the screw driver in and pulling the clip out part way. This will allow the strut to be removed. Replacement is done in reverse, just pull the clip out part way put the strut in place and lock the clip down. Then it’s just putting the bolts back in for the opposite end. Now, switch spots with your friend and do the other side.

Matt - I’ll try to get pictures up tomorrow as a reference. And thank you! I try to get to all questions and as our parents told us, “there is no such thing as a dumb question”. If you don’t ask, you’ll never learn. So ask and I’ll try to get to them all as quickly as I can. And happy jeeping!

Based on this comment I thought I would give a little extra tip while answering the question.

Tony is getting a 112 error code with his 05 TJ 4.0L. Nice thing about the 4.0L, it’s the same in every Jeep it finds a home in. So, while it’s not very common this sensor dies, it is possible. I’ve had it happen with a previous motor swap. The “new” donor motor did have a bad sensor. It’s a quick and painless R&R (remove and replace). If you have an Autozone in your area, the website calls the sensor a “Air Charge Sensor”. Don’t ask, I still don’t get how they come up with different names than a service manual has. Part number is: SU3036 and is price at $27.99.

If you click on this picture for a larger version, you’ll see I’ve highlighted the sensor itself on the 4.0L intake. If you feel adventurous, you can follow Dino Savva’s instructions for relocating the IAT to the air box. I personally have not done this mod yet, but I’m sure I will in the future when I have more mods to do under the hood. Right now, it’s bone stock for me.

Hope that helps and gives a bit more insight to the IAT.

Odd thing, you always want to know that the blood in your motor is always flowing. The only way to know that is the oil pressure gauge. Mine decided to have issues recently. On cold start it would go to 40-50psi and under acceleration, it would peg out over 80+psi. Knowing that I normally run 40psi cold and 25psi on hot idle, I started poking around the net for a reason. After finding more than one comment on NAXJA about high oil pressure gauge pegging out and it being caused by a bad oil pressure switch, I figured it was time to replace mine. Autozone had it in stock (#PS401) for $46.99. It is mounted just above the oil filter on the 4.0L motor. Using a 1 and 1/16″ socket to remove the old one, the new one already came with pipe dope on the threads. This is to make a good seal, remember this is under pressure. Total time for R&R was about 15 mins, that includes cleaning up and toping off fluids. An easy fix, a bit pricey for such a small thing, but well worth it to make sure you can see how your motor is running!

An update to my original post about the Fuse panel. Here is an image of the fuse panel. This is located on the passenger side kick panel.

Oil change (actual 117,379)

• Replaced oil filter with Mobile 1 M-301
• Replaced oil with Mobile 1 Drive Clean 5000 5w30 (6 Quarts)

Rotate tires
Replaced gas cap (broken) #6837
Topped off washer fluid

Oil change (actual 114,235)

• Replaced oil filter with Mobile 1 M-301
• Replaced oil with Mobile 1 Drive Clean 5000 5w30 (6 Quarts)

Installed spare rear drive shaft (rebuilt with new u-joints)
Installed front drive shaft (new u-joint @ axle end)
Replace burned out bulb in map light

Needed to order a new track bar screw and retaining nut as the one I used, became stretched and loose. Figured may as well use the factory spec ones since the 8.8 one I used didn’t work very well. Another 100 mile trip and seems to be holding much better. Guess 10.9 strength does make a small difference.

Parts were only $10.60 plus tax. One day order time from the local dealer.

Well, as you can see, Pumpkin has a matching set of shoes now. The extra set of Moab wheels I have, I’m using 2 for this. The others I’ll be using for something else later on. I was able to score a set of MTR 31’s for $10 and got them mounted for free! Guess when you spend enough money at the tire store they will do favors for you

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Oil change

• Replaced oil filter with Mobile 1 M-301
• Replaced oil with Mobile 1 Drive Clean 5000 5w30 (5 Quarts)
• Lucas Oil Treatment (1 Quart)

Replaced (2) hatch gas struts with Mighty Lift (C95771)
Installed  Street Racer Parts White Face gauges (part no longer made)

Well, after taking almost 3 yrs off this project, I’ve gotten back to it.

Ordered the 3500# axle, 60″WMS to WMS only to find that the Moab wheels won’t work without modification. So, spares will work for the time being. I’ll get back to the Moabs when the solution in my head works.  :satansmoking: Also waiting on a custom built axle tie plate. Since trailer axles are usually bolted to 1 3/4″ or 2″ springs, there is nothing out there for this application when using the factory rear springs. They happen to be 2 1/2″ wide. I found a nice little mom and pop shop close to home that will make it for me. Should be ready in a day or so.

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